File Name: marine diesel engines maintenance troubleshooting and repair .zip
I had departed the marina in Charleston, South Carolina bound for Florida, it was my first cruise on my cutter and there was no wind. But, as the two-cylinder diesel pushed my boat across the harbor towards the Intracoastal Waterway, I had a nagging anxiety—what would I do if the diesel engine quit?
- Marine Diesel Engines
- Marine Diesel Engines Maintenance Troubleshooting And Repair Third Edition By Nigel Calder
- (PDF Download) Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance Troubleshooting and Repair Download
Please note that this product is not available for purchase from Bloomsbury. Here, in this goldmine of a book, is everything the reader needs to keep their diesel engine running cleanly and efficiently.
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Marine Diesel Engines
Tim Bartlett explains how you can diagnose some common marine diesel engine problems, and fix most of them. With a bit of knowledge, you can diagnose engine problems and even fix them at sea Credit: Colin Work. When a diesel stops, it is because something has interrupted one of those processes.
If you can identify the process and put it right, there is a good chance that you will be able to get the engine going again. This happens in a vertical tube, the cylinder, which is machined into the metal block that makes up most of the weight of the engine. The top of the cylinder is sealed by another heavy casting called the cylinder head, through which run various passages that carry air into the cylinder and exhaust gas out of it, with spring-loaded valves controlling the flow.
The bottom of the cylinder is sealed by a piston. As the air and fuel burn they get hot and expand, driving the piston downwards. If these parts fail, there is nothing a DIY mechanic can do about it on board.
If the oil warning alarm sounds or the warning light comes on, do not delay: stop the engine at once, unless doing so is likely to be more dangerous or expensive than a wrecked engine! Check the oil level with the dipstick on each day that you use the engine. Top up the oil level as you would with a car, via the filler cap in the top of the engine.
Let the oil drain down for a few moments before checking the level again. The most likely problem is low oil level, easily rectified just by adding oil. The oil filter should be changed every season, but low oil pressure can mean the filter is clogged and needs changing immediately.
The other likely cause of low oil pressure is a clogged oil filter, for which the cure is to change the filter. If you change the filter, you should change the oil as well.
This is unlikely to be possible at sea, so make your passage to shore as direct as you can. Meanwhile, if topping up the oil and changing the filter have not cured the problem, it is not worth risking the engine by starting it.
This is what sails and anchors are for! Be careful to keep hands, hair, jewellery and clothing away from moving machinery. Do not allow high pressure diesel spray to come anywhere near your skin: it is potentially lethal. Occasional contact with unpressurised diesel poses a minimal health hazard, but it is best avoided, and should be washed off as soon as possible. From the tank, the fuel may pass through a pre-filter. Not all boats have one, but the idea is to trap the worst of any water and dirt in the fuel before it reaches the engine.
Then, the fuel passes to the lift pump, usually low on one side of the engine. Like a miniature diaphragm bilge pump, it pushes the fuel through the fine filter and on to the injection pump. The injection pump is responsible for delivering squirts of fuel to each cylinder at precisely the right moment.
The quantities involved are tiny — typically about a twentieth of a drop in each squirt — but they have to be accurately measured and at enormously high pressure. To do all that calls for very high precision machinery — and that, in turn, means the fuel itself has to be scrupulously clean. Be especially careful if filling from cans and get yourself a fuel filter funnel.
One possible contaminant is air. If air enters the injector pipes, the engine will stop because the air will act as a shock absorber, preventing the fuel pressure from rising high or quickly enough to be sprayed into the cylinder. This is a common problem that is easily solved by bleeding the fuel system of air. Try to stop the leak that has allowed air into the system: it is most likely to be between the tank and the lift pump.
Check the bowl of your fuel filter for diesel contaminants. The fuel system is designed so that any air that gets into it will be trapped at one of a handful of high points — usually one on top of each filter, and sometimes one on top of each pump. Each high point will have a bleed screw: it looks like an ordinary bolt, but has a hole drilled in it that allows air to escape when it is unscrewed a few turns. To bleed the system, first make sure that there is plenty of fuel in the tank.
Then, starting at the tank, release each bleed screw in turn, until clear fuel flows from it, using a jam jar or bean tin to catch any excess. When clear fuel flows from the screw, tighten it and move on to the next. For the pre-filter and lift pump, fuel should flow from the tank by gravity, driving the air out.
Do not try to pump it through by hand or by using the starter motor: you will make matters worse by sucking air in. Once you have worked your way past the lift pump, you can use the lift pump to force fuel through the system. Bleeding at the injectors, slackening the union. Having bled the system at all the bleed screws, the engine will usually start, and will soon run normally.
If it does not, you may have to bleed at the injectors. This involves slackening the union big nut that holds the pipe from the injection pump onto the injector by one turn, then operate the starter until you see liquid diesel appearing at the union. Then tighten the union back up. Water is another possible contaminant. If water reaches the injectors, the engine will stop. You will need to drain off any water that has collected in the pre-filter, replace contaminated filters, and bleed the system to remove any water.
If you have spare filters on board, you may be able to get the engine going again, but this is a potentially serious problem, that could have caused expensive damage to your fuel system long before the engine actually stops. The pre-filter is the part most likely to be affected by water or dirt from the fuel tank, so check it regularly.
To drain it, slacken the drain screw at the bottom and allow the contents to run off in a container until clean fuel emerges. Most pre-filters have transparent bowls, through which water or dirt should be clearly visible, and drain-off taps at the base. To drain the pre-filter, make sure that the fuel tank is topped up, then put a suitable container such as a jam jar under the drain-off tap.
Open the tap until all the contaminated fuel has been drawn off, and clean fuel can be seen flowing into the jar. Then shut the tap. Clogged fuel filters. The symptoms above can also be caused by clogged filters. The only cure is to replace the filter, so you should always carry spares. If you find a treacly goo in the filter, it is a sign of diesel bug, which requires chemical treatment.
Spin the filter on until it touches, then tighten another half-turn. Do not over-tighten. The spin-on type is now virtually standard for oil filters, and is widely used for fuel. It consists of a metal canister that is unscrewed in one piece using either a strap wrench or a dedicated filter removal tool. Take care not to leave the rubber sealing ring stuck to the filter head on the engine! Apply a thin smear of oil to the rubber seal on the new filter, and screw the whole thing onto the threaded tube that sticks out of the filter head, until the rubber seal touches the filter head.
Then tighten it a further half turn — no more — by hand. The cartridge type is often used as a fuel pre-filter, and is usually in three parts, held together by a long central bolt. Pre-filters can usually be emptied by opening the drain tap at the bottom and loosening the bleed screw at the top, and allowing the contents to run out into a suitable container.
Otherwise, use a plastic bag or a bucket to catch the filter contents when you unscrew the centre bolt, and allow the filter bowl and cartridge to drop away from the filter head. Replace the cartridge, and put the whole thing back together again, taking care to replace any rubber sealing rings. The cartridge type of filter is loosened by unscrewing the central bolt.
The element type consists of a replaceable element inside a non-replaceable body. Details vary: some are held together by a central bolt, others by a retaining ring round the outside of the body, but the basics of replacing the element are always the same: unscrew the body, using a jam jar or bean tin to catch any spillage, then remove the element from the bowl taking note of any sealing rings, springs or washers and reassemble it with a new filter element.
Note: Before changing a fuel filter, shut off the fuel supply at the tank. Afterwards, open the fuel supply, and bleed the system to remove air.
When changing an oil filter, particularly one that is horizontal rather than vertical, be ready to catch the oil that will run out of it. If possible, partly fill the new filter with fresh oil before you fit it, and be sure to check and top up the engine oil afterwards. Most of the rest is unwanted heat — heat that has to be got rid of to stop the engine from catching fire or welding itself into a useless lump.
Some engines use sea water usually called raw water to cool the engine directly. Most marine engines today use a more sophisticated indirect cooling system, with the engine cooled by a fresh water and anti-freeze mix, just as it is in a car.
The only difference is that instead of using air flowing through a radiator to cool the coolant, a marine engine uses raw water flowing through a heat exchanger. If it has, the only solution is to replace it. The principle is exactly the same as replacing the fan belt on a car, but the details vary a lot from one engine to another.
The next check is that the seacock is open and that the strainer is clear. Again, strainer designs vary, but in general, the procedure is to shut the seacock, unscrew the top of the strainer body, remove the strainer element, rinse it, and reassemble the whole thing. Remember to open the seacock afterwards! A broken impeller with a missing blade: time to check the piping. If there was no visible blockage or clearing the blockage does not clear the symptoms, the next most likely problem is that the raw water pump has failed.
This often happens right at the beginning of the season, or after the engine has been started with the seacock shut. To change an impeller, first undo the cover screws and peel away the remains of the paper gasket that may be stuck to it. If you have a spare impeller on board, it is a fairly simple job to fit it in place of the old one. First shut the seacock. Then locate the pump by tracing the pipework from the raw water strainer, or by looking for the only piece of brass on most modern engines.
Remove the half dozen or so screws that hold the brass face plate onto the body of the pump, and pull it away — making sure to remove the remains of the paper gasket as well. Pull out the impeller.
Marine Diesel Engines Maintenance Troubleshooting And Repair Third Edition By Nigel Calder
File Size. Download Links. MAN is a world leader in the production of marine and industrial diesel engines. MAN engines drive cars and locomotives, yachts and commercial vessels, generators and thermal power plants, construction and agricultural machinery. Certified technical personnel of the company have qualified training and experience in servicing and repairing engines and are able to competently and competently serve an extensive range of all manufactured modifications of MAN engines : D, D, D, D, D, D, R6, V8, V
Over the past several decades, we could observe numerous significant developments and advances in the field of marine engineering, particularly related to the shipboard diesel engines installed on board both ships and offshore installations. So many new technologies were introduced, each of them deserving closest attention by all people engaged in the maritime industry. The publication was prepared in order to fulfil all needs of the marine engineers willing to stay in touch with the latest information on the modern marine diesel engines slowly replacing the ones of the older series. It is absolutely important for the professional marine engineers to keep equipped with the due knowledge and understanding of the engines they operate and maintain when performing their day to day duties. One of the features that differs this publication from many others is that the content has been presented in a perfectly understandable form, which will be appreciated by the students of marine engineering.
Marine Tracker Tracker Archive. It is neither a simple how-to book nor a technical manual on the thermodynamics of internal-combustion engines. Rather, it falls somewhere between the two. This reflects my own experience as a selftaught mechanic with some 20 years' experience on a variety of engines, from 10 to 2, h. With specific enough instructions it is perfectly possible to dismantle an engine and put it back together again without having any understanding of how it works. Troubleshooting that engine without a basic grasp of its operating principles, however, is not possible.
(PDF Download) Marine Diesel Engines: Maintenance Troubleshooting and Repair Download
Simple, regular maintenance is the easiest, quickest and cheapest way to avoid problems and accelerated engine wear. Most expensive repairs start from a lack of basic maintenance or ignoring small warnings. The work is not difficult - it just needs to be done. One of the most important, and easiest, ways to ensure the health and longevity of all mechanical equipment on a boat is keep a Maintenance Log.
Marine Diesel Engines explains how to: Diagnose and. Nowupdated with information on fuel injection systems, electronic engine controls, and other new diesel technologies, Nigel Calder's bestsellerhas everything you need to keep your diesel engine running cleanly and efficiently. Marine Diesel Engines explains how to: Diagnose andrepair engine problems Perform routine and annual maintenance Extend the life and improve the efficiency of your engine.
About Marine Diesel Engines
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